Travel Blog - Australia 2017

Epilogue of Grey Nomads

It is a great experience to travel through this country with most friendly and helpful bush campers. Our West Coast trip down from Darwin through the Kimberly's and Pilbara was a steady moving on.

Positive experiences:

- a SIA stopover package at Singapore (to Darwin) is well worth and you save tremendous amount of money.

- A daily +/- 400 km drive is okay.

- Having 3 days off driving and relaxing made us fresh for new impressions (out of 24 days).

- Our favourite place was Gumbanan (opposite Cape Leveque). It was a great bush camp, nearby sandy beach, a lot of birds and most pleasant campers.

- Yardie Creek (near Exmouth) and Windjana Gorge (near Derby) as well as the Lighthouse at North West Cape (Exmouth) became a good second.

- Most remote bush camp we had at Balla Balla in the west of Dampier.

- Sunset and sunrise at the north Pilbara coast makes most wonderful rainbow coloured skies, but avoid to be too late at the beach!

- To travel in winter time (July/August) was great with warm days around 25-30 degrees and fresh nights. Just down to the south (below Exmouth) you feel the cold season.

- To travel along Rio Tinto railway lines is well worth (you need special permission), especially along the Roebourne-Millstream track.

- The silence and stars at night makes you wonder all night.

Lesson learned:

- Grey Nomads occupying all powered sites ... a motel or a cabin is more expensive but you have to take it from time to time to recharge all your equipment's.

- A one month WA National Park entry pass would be recommended, even as seniors you pay around half of normal entry fees.

- Millstream National Park doesn't shows on landscape what you expected from Google Pictures (no sun shined red hills, just flat woodland).

- We left aside Karijini National Park because of time reasons, maybe a thing we would make different next time. 

- Internet is most annoying and Visitor Centres not permitting battery recharge a nuisance (great exception is Karratha Visitor Centre, were all was provided in perfect quality and quantity).

- Life is quite expensive, especially vegetables and fruits.

If you need any information, please use my contact form.

... and a last Fish & Chips

To Cape Peron … but not really 

First of August we celebrated at a wonderful night place at the beach of Denham Sound south of Whalebone Bay/Fowlers Camp (we named it Cold Windy Camp) with an extraordinary coloured sky after sunset. In the morning we went up north the explore Cape Peron. Coming to the 4WD-unsealed sandy road it shows a 40 km trip to the Cape. Within less than 8 km we became trapped in a sand hole … a one hour “rescue” operation was needed to dig out the car and proceed to a siding place within 10 meters. There we decided to turn, it was no way to reach the Cape under such condition with our too heavy 4WD-vehicle.  

A view of life before Adam and Eva

A visit to the remarkable Hamelin Pool stromatolites in Western Australia is a must when holidaying in the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. Stromatolites are layered bio-chemical accretionary structures formed in shallow water by the trapping, binding and cementation of sedimentary grains by biofilms (microbial mats) of microorganisms, especially cyanobacteria. Fossilized stromatolites provide ancient records of life on Earth by these remains, some of which may date from 3.7 billion years ago.

A tourist place 

A brief overnight stop we made at Coral Bay, but beside of two large camping’s (at one we got an unpowered site), some souvenir shops, some restaurants and a beach for children not much to enjoy. Most attraction was the fishermen’s table were the catch of the day was brought in and put to pieces. Some beautiful Pink Snappers and dark Tune fishes came to the table.

A place to live

Exmouth is a tidy town at the north-west of WA. The town was established in 1967 to support the nearby US Navy Naval Communication Station Harold E.Holt. Beginning in the late 1970s, the town began hosting US Air Force personnel assigned to Learmonth Solar Observatory, a defence science facility jointly operated with Australia's Ionospheres Prediction Services. The US personal imported 200 US left hand driven cars, a major attraction at Exmouth in those years.

Internet access and a recharging allowance … both are not provided at Exmouth and Milyering Visitor Centre at Cape Range National Park ... more interested to sell 400$ wales watching tours! TIP: Go to the room were a video of sea life is shown and behind the screen there is a power socket battery you can use unofficially while enjoying the video.

From Onslow to Exmouth

Driving the whole morning, nothing special can be reported. The landscape is flat with a few hills and some big red sand dunes across the countryside. After a brief stop at the Nanularra Roadhouse with coffee and chicken wings the trip went on. On the way north we passed our 5000 km mark. In early afternoon we arrived at the charming coastal town of Exmouth.

This time with (!) sunset and sunrise

As sunset is over a half hour later down here and we were driving without any stops so we were in time on the 40 Miles Beach Camping for the sunset. Most long time residents everywhere generators were making annoying noises. So we moved to an outside second place of the camping. Having a fresh evening and another spaghetti dinner we soon choose to go in. Half past six in the morning sun started to rise, a warm coffee and breakfast (including neighbour’s dog) we choose to start early for our progress to the West. 

Wonderful landscape ahead

Driving from Roebourne we took the road to Harding Dam. Nicely situated in the mountains the water dam and its surrounding were a big contrast to the endless "flat" driving from Broome – Post Hedland – Roebourne. Then we choose the private Rio Tinto Access Road (with special permission only) to Millstream. Soon we came along the wonderful Lake Poongkaliyarra. Up a winding street we followed the rail tracks and the first train passed, we just missed to take a picture. At a siding he stopped.  

Walking on the sea shore 

Another day starts with a blue sky and we went to walk on the endless sea shore. Most campers and outsiders went to try their luck while fishing. We walked down the long beach and collected all kind of shells. Later we moved on the flat section towards Port Hedland (the most monotone stretch so far). Having a avocado chicken burger and two iced coffee drinks for lunch at the Silver Star restaurant. This is a disused private US passenger coach who ended up at BHP and later as restaurant. After a brief stop we took the next endless flat route direction Roebourne, were we turned at Whim Creek to Balla Balla ! Yes, that is correct, not a beer too much. 

Red stones

Driving out the Dampier Peninsula over 80 km unsealed and another 80 km on sealed road we reached in time the beach for sunset. The famous red sandstones started to “glow” in the last sunbeams. Next to the beach is a nice restaurant but we decided to proceed to Gumbanan Bush Camp before the last light vanishes. Missing the street to the camp we had to reverse and finally arrived at black night at the camp. So we took the first place we saw.

A history not to forget 

Along the way we passed the historic place of Boab Prison Tree: Before Derby was established 1883, Aboriginal people were kidnapped from the West Kimberly. The kidnappers, known as blackbirders, were white settlers who were connected with the pearling industry. They rounded people up, put them in chains and marched them to the coast. Some blackbirders have held their captives at the Boab Prison Tree while they waited for a boat to reach the coast. There, the slaves had to work as divers and as boat people.

An old Aussi man

The Boab Tree has been evolving in Australia for about the last 190 million years. They are believed to have originated from plant material washed to the shores from Madagascar, where six different species of it exists. A Boab Tree can withstand bush fires and draught. It stores water in its fibrous tissues during the wet season and swells in diameter. When burnt it “peels” an outer layer. The age of a Boab Tree is difficult to determine as old trees are hollow and have no grows rings. It seems, some of the large and bottle shaped trees are some thousand years old!

Next stop Fitzroy Crossing

After a night stop at a parking lot near Alice Hill along the highway (almost no traffic during the night, so we had a good but cold sleep) the trip went on to Halls Creek with a fuel stop. Coming just after noon close to Fitzroy Crossing we passed the first 2000 km mark of our holiday. At Fitzroy River Lodge we got one of the last powered sites and had all amenities you need … recharging all batteries, dirty closes to laundry, internet connection at 6$ an hour and a great dinner at restaurant. We are ready for the next adventure. 

Sun taking its toll

After the gorge a short way to the Osmond lookout. This area was once an extensive geological basin which sediments accumulated from the weathering of the Osmond Range from the action of wind, rain and rivers. After taking in the view a hot walk back was before us. The sun burning down and water supply getting short we arrived at our parking. 

Bush Camp to Purnululu National Park 

Soon after 6 am the sun brought back the warm sunbeams to our bush camp. Breakfast in the outback is a big enjoyment, nature at its best. At 7.30 am we drove off to the Purnululu National Park. Turning off the Great Northern Highway we soon came to Sandy Creek River crossing, a short stop and hop it goes into the floods were in the middle the motor died … f*** it … a quick restart and out. A second (photo shooting) attempt succeeded and 50 km of unsealed road to Purnululu followed.

Nothing but stars in the sky 

Arriving later in Emma Gorge we had an hour long walk over rocks to the beautiful located gorge in red stones. In cold water we took a refreshing swim and went back. Sun became low as we drove off, than we realised the famous red mountain band nearby …  but it is not illuminated by the sun in winter, so no advertisement picture for us! We proceeded to set up a bush camp just after the placed called “Grotto”. Night set in quickly at 6 pm and the stars filled the sky. The southern Milky Way galaxy almost above us … how small and thankful for our life we felt under this enormous sky. 

A relaxing day 

Early getting up, the old battery clock set to half past six went off an hour before. No worry … we picked up our things, drove to petrol station (the last trip took up 10 l/100 km consumption), filled tank and two coffee cups. Breakfast at the Lake … shore. Next, we drove to Wyndham. At the Five River Lookout, a spectacular round view over the seashore of Joseph Bonaparte Gulf waited for us. 

Arriving at Kununurre 

It seems all camp grounds are fully booked at six o’clock, but finally at the third stop we caught the last empty place at Ivanhow Street. After the long day we had, we went to Kimberly Asian Restaurant in the town centre. We had a delicious food of fried Seafood Sweet Sour and Lamp on Chinese Vegetable for a reasonable prize with friendly staff, can be recommended. 

Welcome to Western Australia

After a 14 hour sleep at Edith Falls (taking up for the missed sleep of last flying night) our waking up was way behind schedule … but we felt fresh for the day! The 550 km drive brought us down the Interstate Quarantine at the border to Western Australia. “Any fruits, any vegetable? May I have a look in the fridge Mr Trippi?” … oh, the global citizen is already known down here too (we didn’t showed any paper). “No worry, have a good trip” and off we went to Kununurre.

First bushfire

Soon after we left Darwin a big smoke plume was ahead. As the fire was under control at the street border we could proceed through the heavy smoke. Over twenty big birds were cycling the location to pick up fleeing animals.

Middle of the night to Australia

A whole bunch of Swiss families and couples filled the front half of our SilkAir flight. Fish and saucy spaghetti for a midnight dinner and more delicious four chocolate vanilla ice cream candies made up as a sweetener. Arrival on time but no gate ready for another 20 minutes on the tarmac ... baggage claim took even longer, too much work at this time on the ramp ? ... and not to forget the time change of 1.5 hours (yes, Darwin time zone is special).

Cool down in the hotel pool

The third day ... full sunshine, high temperature, high humidity ... finally after a free and beautiful river cruise and a walk in the Gardens by the Bay we gave up and enjoyed the swimming pool of our Peninsula Excelsior hotel. At 4.30 pm it was time to leave for the airport where we departed at 7.55pm to Darwin. A night flight of 4.5 hours with a fully loaded B737-800 of SilkAir.  

SIA stopover arrangement

Book a transfer stopover night with SIA and you save plenty of your SG$: Singapore Flyer (wheel) at no cost (standard prize 33$pP), Flower Dome and Cloud Forest at no costs (60$ pP), SkyPark observation platform instead of 46$ only 36$ pP., hop-on hop-off bus at no cost (38$ pP a day) and many more museums, boat tours, botanic garden and others at no costs. For entrance you have to show always your departure and stopover pass.

Enjoy the night at hotel

We booked the Peninsula Excelsior Hotel, which is 5 km from the city centre, by taxi (10$) 5 min only from the famous Marina Bay Sands away. It is about half price when booked with SIA stopover arrangement = 230$ for 2 nights. The hotel restaurant has a tremendous view (see picture with Marina Bay Sands Hotel in the background), food is average but with reasonable prices. Standard room is comfortable and spacious.

A different view of Singapore

After a 12 hours flight we checked in at Peninsula Hotel but couldn't go to the room at 8 am. So a first "Hop on Bus tour" took our tired legs around the city at sunny weather.

Dawn at Masar-e Scharif

While over Afghanistan, our Singapore Airbus 380 flew into night. The desert below turned from light brown to darkness within half an hour. A golden wing flew through sky.

Road Assessment passed 

Rio Tinto rail network is the largest privately-owned and operated rail system in Australia. As tourist you need a special permit to drive on Rio Tinto Access Roads along the tracks. Several instruction videos show how to travel safely in the outback, how to survive a bush fire and how to behave when taking train pictures. A ten question assessment has to be passed to gain the permit to drive on private Rio Tinto roads.

Trip Overview 

Highlights will be El Questro with Emma Gorge. Bungle Bungle with Piccaninny Creek and Cathedral Gorge, Geikie- and Windjana Gorge National Park, Broome with Cape Leveque. Down to Port Hedland and Millstream National Park, back on the Rio Tinto Rail Access (gravel) Road to Karratha. Then westwards for snorkelling to Exmouth. Down to Coral Bay, Shark Bay and Cape Perron. The last leg goes to Pink Lake in Gregory before heading south for Perth.  

Let's start down under our 2017 trip 

After days (weeks) of planning, our next trip to Australia will start July 11th, 2017, at Darwin. It will take us all down the Western Coast to Perth, where on August 4th the camper has to be returned. Keep track with us and enjoy our experience in the outback.

photo: Darwin 2015